By Lydia Linton Pontius
Photos by Sandy Bartosh and Lydia Linton Pontius
Where in the world can one still find peace and quiet on a secluded beach without traveling half-way around the world? Xamach Dos!
I was recently attending Akumal's 50th Anniversary and what people talked about most was a time that was lost, when the road to Akumal was dirt and if you didn't bring a certain supply, you went without because a trip to the store was an all day outing. Well welcome to that time and place that most people think has been lost.
Once you enter Sian Kaan Biosphere the road becomes a well-traveled dirt road, much like 307 was many years ago. And you travel through the jungle with unexpected and breath-taking views of either the lagoon or the ocean that literally pop up on you. If you continue past Xamach Dos you will eventually come to a small but popular fishing village, Punta Allen.
Located just a short way past the bridge in Sian Kaan, Xamach Dos is on your left-hand side. You can walk for about two miles on white powdery sand in either direction before you come to the next inhabitant. But fear not, they have the coldest beer, plenty of good food and the tortillas are actually delivered each morning when the tortilla truck makes its way up and down the road. And though you may be isolated, you are not without contact to the outside world - WiFi is available. For the few people, such as myself, who actually are working or are in need of contact, it's a nice perk. My suggestion, however, would be to toss the computer along with your cares and have a relaxing time.
There are hammocks to lie in and beach chairs to lounge in. Miles of beach to walk and plenty of great snorkeling to be done. The bay is protected by the Mesoamerican coral reef so you will enjoy the gentle rolls without the beating wave action. We took the boat out for a tour of the bay and it was truly amazing to feast your eyes on miles of virgin beach and jungle. We stopped at some remote reefs and snorkeled! It was heaven not to be surrounded by numerous yellow or orange life jackets and snorkelers. We were literally the lone boat for as far as the eye could see. Ahhhh to that memory!
The evenings are quiet at Xamach Dos, but the stars are there out their glory. And Josh, the manager, is great company. A former restaurant manager and journalism student, he has taken to life in Sian Kaan like a fish to water. He is self-taught in Spanish and his Maya is coming along nicely.
Xamach Dos has several different options to choose from as far as accommodations: the original two bungalows are cement structures with palapa roofs and are quaint and very tropical in their look and feel. They also have the tree house, which is the closest to the beach, built up on stilts, it also has a palapa roof and slatted windows on three sides to capture the breezes. Their newest edition is a second story suite built above the managers place. It has a bath and 2 bedrooms with a living space that has a futon. This area can sleep up to 8 people and it has a lovely second floor deck accessible from both bedrooms.
Xamach Dos has generators but most of their electricity is generated by solar panels. They provide 3 meals a day which are served under their large palapa communal area.
This is by no means a fancy 5 star resort, and most days there was not even maid service (they limit laundry for environmental reasons). But it is a relaxing step back in time to a simpler way and a relaxing camp – without the camping - feel. You won't find any deep cushion chairs to curl up in, but the furnishings are adequate and functional for the setting.
Storm on the horizon but it never came to shore.
Heading back after a snorkeling tour
Josh snorkeling - showing what can be found.