by Alex Bradley (April 2012)
photos too, unless otherwise noted
Wanting to head over to see Uxmal finally after lo, these many years, I researched places to stay nearby. I soon discovered the Web site for The Flycatcher Inn and found it very intriguing. The location was good, only 10 minutes from Uxmal and, my indeed being a birder, the name captured my attention as well. The rates seemed quite reasonable for the pictured accommodations, and included breakfast.
After making our reservation with co-owner Kristine, my friend Lois Smith and I drove interior from Felipe Carrillo Puerto, following the directions that Kristine helpfully had provided. We arrived in late afternoon for the first of our two-night stay.
I had informed Kristine that I wanted to review her B&B for Sac-Be.com, so she showed us around the rooms and grounds. The photos on their Web site illustrate them well. photo by Lois Smith
As the sun set, the Clay-colored Robins sang and called until it was almost fully dark. Lois and I settled into our beautifully decorated room, reviewed the provided maps and materials, and eventually I sank into the most comfortable bed I've slept in anywhere in Mexico.
Early in the morning, we headed out on the trail to the top of the property, accompanied by parrots, anis, orioles, more robins and a squirrel. We discovered the small ruins, partially excavated, as well as the altar that Santiago, Kristine's husband, had placed to solicit Chac's (the rain god's) assistance.
After our little adventure, we were ready for coffee, and then breakfast, served on the veranda of the main house. It was a lovely table setting, until I knocked over my coffee, wiping out the entire table; we had to move to another one. I think they'll remember us.
We spent some time talking with Kristine and learned some of her fascinating background, how she came to move to this small Maya town, and what her life has been like since. It's such a good story that she's recently published it: Tales from the Yucatan Jungle: Life in a Mayan Village. She said the purpose of the book is to help tell the story of the village and to keep some of the local stories alive.
We ate lunch in a local restaurant and wandered around Santa Elena a bit. Then later in the afternoon we talked with Santiago about some of his experiences, while savoring some ice-cold Jamaica (hibiscus tea). In the evening, we strolled around town some more, eventually deciding on some dessert. photo by Lois Smith
After another restful night we enjoyed another delicious breakfast, this time with no table accidents. We chatted with Kristine and Santiago a bit more, before bidding them farewell, to make our way onward to Uxmal.
Whenever I'll return to that area, I know I'll want to stay there again.